Anglo-Saxon Romsey and the Lower Test Valley
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LOOKING FOR ANGLO-SAXON AMPFIELD
Meeting held at Ampfield 8th May 2015
Summary by Barbara Burbridge 2015 (with extra notes on place name by Mary Harris 2023)
Background
The section of Ampfield that lies between the Straight Mile and the Potters Heron is at the eastern fringe of our study area with Romsey to the west, Michelmersh to the north and North Baddesley to the south. Over the centuries the name has appeared in various forms, the most noteworthy - going back in time - being Ampfield, Anfield, Anvile and Ticcenfelda.
Additional notes on the place-name: The ‘Ticcen’ element of Ticcenesfelda Wicum has been interpreted as ‘kid’ or ‘young goat' in Old English but is singular. Naming a place after one kid seems unlikely so it may be that here Ticcen is used as a personal or nick name for an individual. Wicum is plural. Wic has a number of meanings in OE: temporary abode, camp, encampment, lodging, dwelling-place, habitation, house, mansion, farm, often farm of specialist purpose (eg a dairy farm or trading settlement). In the plural wic usually refers to a hamlet or village. Thus the name may mean a specialist goat farm but more likely a hamlet of a man nicknamed "young goat').
An Ampfield Study Day was held at the home of Society member, Barbara Burbridge, who lives in historic Ampfield at a key point on the charter route.
8th May: Introductory Talk
Barbara Burbridge began the day with a brief synopsis of research undertaken and knowledge in the public domain. This talk is reported in greater detail as follows.
Workshop Study: A small workshop group has been trying to analyse the Anglo- Saxon charter for Ampfield as part of an overall study of Anglo-Saxon charters for the study area. There were two main sources for this work – maps and previous interpretations of the charters made by Sawyer and Grundy. In the case of Ampfield a short cut to the past was available in the 1588 map of Merdon Manor, which strips away the accretions of centuries and offers a half- way house between the present and the Anglo-Saxon era. The map gives a clearer opportunity of interpreting the boundary markers as briefly described in the charter. In particular it offers a much clearer possibility for the previously unidentified holding stowe.
The charter begins at Ticcenfelda Wic (ticcenesfelda wicum. (wicum is dative plural) which was probably sited at present-day Crampmoor Farm. In true Anglo-Saxon style, the boundary is then followed clockwise.
NOTES:
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Karen Anderson has subsequently suggested that the clockwise direction emerged from the process of walking towards a specified point keeping the land to be allocated on the right hand side.
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Definition of ‘widdershins’ (ie anti-clockwise) is that it is contrary to the course of the sun in the northern hemisphere and so for long, superstitiously, considered to be unlucky.
On the west and north-west, the Ampfield charter aligns with a boundary that is common with the Romsey charter and still substantially surviving as a ditch and bank feature in today’s landscape, part of its line clearly named on the 1588 map. The line of this bank leads to the Fairbourne stream which in turn leads to a brief but significant correlation with Michelmersh and Slackstead at Seaxes Seathe. The old interpretation of this as ‘Saxon Pit’, has been discarded in favour of either ‘Saxon spring-pond’ or ‘Knife spring-pond’. Today it is known as Woolley Green Pond. Coming due south (as per the Anglo-Saxon instructions) the next marker is the 'holding stowe', newly identified as Ampfield Hill by Dr Alex Langlands who noted the deference still accorded to a special open space by the 16th-century roads that then skirted the hill top. Barbara’s home is on the south side of this hill.
Existing Publications: In the Hampshire VCH (published 1908) Ampfield is recorded mainly in the context of Hursley estate to which it belonged until 1832. Domesday Book contains no reference to Ampfield, Hursley or Merdon.
The study benefits from the research of Liz Hallett and Anita Wood as distilled in their book ‘Ampfield Through the Ages’. They record indications of a high-status Saxon presence in the area, as revealed in the finding of a good quality 6th century brooch and a decorative metal strap from a slightly later period.
Then there are stories of Saxon royalty in the neighbourhood. Cynegils, 7th century King of the West Saxons, is said to have given the Merdon estate to the bishops of Winchester. Although there is no contemporary record of his death in battle a local story records that he died in a battle at Bloody Bridge, long associated with a now minor bridge in Jermyns Lane on the western edge of Ampfield. Then the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle tells of the murder in 671AD of Cynwulf, a later king of the West Saxons, at a place that may have been Merdon Castle (Hursley) but may also have been Martin in Wiltshire.
Some time later, the area may have been subjected to a battle between Saxons and Vikings in the 9th century, when the whole district was unsettled by Viking incursions. And essentially Ampfield was close to the centre of power when Alfred held Winchester as his capital.
Later Clues: At this point it was necessary to leave these largely unsubstantiated stories about the Saxons and start to look for clues in later evidence. And this is where the group has been turning to maps and ancillary material; to the topography and to an interpretation of what is on offer.
There are several maps at our disposal for Ampfield. Going backwards in time, there is a 1932 estate map at the time of the sale of the estate; an 1855 map with some very useful clues; the 1839 Tithe map and schedule; an enclosure map c1806 (British Library on-line) and, above all, the 1588 Ralph Treswell map, which saves the group a tremendous amount of deductive reasoning by stripping away the accretions of more than 400 years. It shows clearly that the centre of the 16th century hamlet of Ampfield (or Anvile) was around Ampfield Hill. Later, of course, that centre moved towards Knapp Lane with the 19th century arrival of the church and the school and then the village hall, post office and recreation ground – all east of the earlier centre. The 1588 map also, most valuably, indicates lost roads and tracks.
Two very special versions of the 1588 map were available, both produced by Roger Harris who has had several prints made from his meticulous tracing of the map. On one he had outlined the boundaries of the numerous hamlets that served to make up the Merdon Manor estate of the day. On the second Roger had colour-coded the individual copyholds. This colouring had thrown up more clearly the significance of roads that have since been lost.
Ampfield portion of the Ralph Treswell map of Merdon 1588 showing cottages, roads and tracks. copy drawn by R Harris. Original map held by IBM Hursley House.
Ampfield portion of the Ralph Treswell map of Merdon 1588 showing holdings of individual tenants, copy drawn by R Harris. Original map held by IBM Hursley House.
Notice that the map is drawn with North to the right.
Studying maps of Ampfield photo by Karen Anderson
Study of the various 1588 maps revealed a significant number of surviving roads and trackways seeming to all converge on the 'holding stowe' of Ampfield Hill, one of these roads still today known as Pound Lane. These roads give each villager a route from his cottage and surrounding land to the open Common land and may be more related to the medieval village land use than the Saxon.
Another significant source of information comes from Robert Morley, whose name appears as a 1588 tenant. (Probably his father was the tenant since Richard Morley, the writer, was only about 12 years old in 1588
– he did not die until 1672, when his tomb records him as ‘senex’, an old man. See work of Rev. John Marsh, cited below.) Morley wrote of the customs of the manor, and although his records have since been lost they were recorded by an early 19th century vicar of Baddesley (Marsh, Revd John – Memoranda of the Parishes of Hursdley and North Baddesley in the County of Southampton, 1808). In particular, Morley had written about the custom relating to copyhold tenure. Marsh records that the Merdon manor copyholds were inheritable, specifically through the youngest son or, failing sons, the youngest daughter. This variant of inheritance is sometimes known as Borough English, which despite its name was more usually found in rural manors, especially in the south-east of England. The suffix ‘English’ was given to this form of holding by the French to whom such a custom was alien. Mary Harris advises that the custom of Borough English was also followed in the Michelmersh area, while it was suggested that the same applied to Wellow.
NOTES: 1. Possible link with Jutish settlements of IOW and around Southampton Water + New Forest but the association of Borough English particularly with Kent is now questioned.
2. Although mostly found in rural areas, the name Borough English derives from a famous 1327 case that arose in Nottingham. There, a French borough had emerged alongside an existing English one. The inheritance traditions differed in this dual settlement with the French element favouring primogeniture. The tradition of property passing to the youngest son or daughter was upheld for the English borough.
8th May: Fieldwork
Some dozen enthusiasts gathered for a day of practical investigation. For those staying indoors, there were several items to study – maps, including Roger Harris’s work; iron slag found in the garden of Plumtree Cottage; files of various notes about Ampfield, Mary Harris’s folder of maps with other charter boundaries indicated; and an assortment of computers set up with various sources of information.
Walking the boundary of Ampfield led by Dr Alex Langlands. Photos by Karen Anderson
Starting from the footpath that runs along the western edge of Plumtree Cottage, the majority set out southwards to ‘walk the bounds’ as accurately as the present lay-out allows. The aim was to trace the final stretch of the Anglo- Saxon charter from the 'Holding Stowe' back to the starting point at 'Ticcenfelda Wic' at Crampmoor. This section has no alternative confirmation, since there is no Anglo-Saxon charter for North Baddesley to the south that might have offered matching clues. So the walkers had to look carefully for indications of ditches, banks and hedges.
Thonne ther suth andlang Hagan of hit cymth aeft to Ticcefeldes Wicum (Then there south along the Hedge till it comes again to 'Ticcefeldes Wicum ‘)
Moving south from Plumtree Cottage and its position to the south of the 'holding stowe', the group was obliged to stay with the present line of the footpath across the rear fields, but Roger Harris’s copyhold-coded map suggested that as late as 1588 there were clear indications that the turn into Lower Farm (a few yards west of Plumtree) linked straight through to Green Lane at a point where today the lane turns quite sharply eastwards towards Pound Lane. From the present footpath the group could see across the fields to the way so proposed still bounded by a possible hagan or hedge line. (The 1855 map shows a spur of the present footpath breaking away to cut across diagonally to the far corner.)
The footpath led into Green Lane (near the Pound Lane junction) and the walkers followed Green Lane westwards away from Pound Lane until reaching the sharp bend clearly seen on modern maps. Some time was spent at this point where there is a gate that leads into a crucial part of the terrain. Beyond the gate is a rather overgrown area with a second gate some yards beyond and a straight line angled back roughly northwards along the hagan/hedge to Lower Farm. This space between the two may be the old Green Lane End referred to in the survey that accompanied the 1588 Merdon Manor estate map.
To the west (left and still within the two gates) a hollow followed the line of the now lost New Lane, so named on the 1588 map. Effectively, there had once been a cross-roads at this point with Green Lane continuing northwards towards the 'Holding Stowe' and New Lane crossing it towards Pound Lane.
Continuing westwards along Green Lane, there were several points of interest. To the south (left) there was a wide swathe (now somewhat overgrown) before the field fence. This was thought to suggest a one-time wider way, possibly enlarged at the time of enclosure or possibly even older as an ancient drove way. The present-day metalled surface makes this width unnecessary.
On the north side of the lane a ditch and bank were observed, most probably a surviving section of the Anglo-Saxon charter boundary. This idea was re-enforced by several very old hedge-trees along the top of the bank, one that showed signs of hedge-layering in the past and another that had clearly been coppiced over a great length of time. (NB The latter stood alone as the nearby property boundaries had been moved back slightly.) Both these features were of considerable age
Green Lane
Coppicing
Hedge laying
The way then led past a short stretch of modern dwellings on the north side followed by a large farm complex. Personal evidence from one group member stated that the farmhouse (which is gable end to the lane) had been extended towards the lane in the late 20th century and had probably destroyed any surviving bank in the process. The front gardens of the modern houses had probably done the same.
Shortly past the properties a footpath led due north, first along the hedge of an open field and then through woodland at the end of which the public way led through a farm gate into open fields. Land to the south had been common heathland and a field line reflected the enclosure process of the early 1800s. Across the field another gate led into yet another field at the far corner of which a narrow footbridge crossed a tributary of the Tadburn into Crampmoor.
Aerest aet Ticcenesfelda Wicum
(First at/to 'Ticcenesfelda Wicum')
A turning to the right led to a field gate into Crampmoor Farm. As 'Ticcenesfelda Wicum' this now marked the starting point of the Ampfield Charter. (NB Alex Langlands had previously pointed out to the workshop group that those responsible for marking out a charter boundary would base themselves in a well-established settlement – in this case Romsey. So Crampmoor Farm would have been the nearest notable starting point for those people.)
A footpath northwards within the farm picked up once again with a satisfying stretch of the 'haga', the bank here now largely topped by holly bushes. As the footpath neared the south inner road of the Straight Mile (A3090) it deviated eastwards, clearly re-routed when the large properties were built along here in the third quarter of the 20th century.
The bank was picked up again in the rough ground between the inner road and the A3090.
The Straight Mile: a section of the Anglo-Saxon bank and ditch
Some of the group crossed the road to look at the bank on the other side of the A3090 in the corresponding gap between the main road and the north inner road. This had previously been explored by independent groups, some of whom had followed stretches up to the Fairbourne (Fearburnam) and on to Woolley Green Pond (the Saxon Pit of earlier interpretations). It is worth noting that the 1855 map of Ampfield shows evidence of the bank continuing round the back of Jermyns House with a footpath leading through present-day Hilliers Gardens and on to the Fairbourne.
This walk took considerably longer than anticipated, so that after a late lunch there was only time to have a review of the day’s achievements and a general discussion about the whole project.
The bank and ditch marking the boundary of Ampfield still visible alongside the Straight Mile
The planned afternoon walk northwards to Woolley Pond has been postponed. until the evening of Thursday, 21st May, starting at Plumtree Cottage at 6.30pm.
Walk to Woolley Green Pond 21st May 2015
Special Note: The charter mark point previously identified as ‘Saxon Pit’ has now been re-defined as Woolley Pond with the preferred interpretation of the Anglo-Saxon ‘Seaxes Seathe’ being either ‘knife spring-pond’ (or seething pond) or ‘Saxon spring-pond’.
Thanks to Barbara’s neighbour, contact was made with the owner of Woolley Farm in which Woolley Pond is situated. He agreed to meet a group who were walking northwards from the 'holding stowe' to Woolley Pond. (This was in the opposite direction from the charter instructions)
A group of seven set off at 6.30pm. It was necessary to walk around to the main A3090 via Pound Lane as the footpath that once led straight across from the footpath alongside Plumtree Cottage was extinguished when properties were built along the main road in the 1960s. The line was picked up at Winghams Lane on the north side of the A3090.
Winghams Lane is a broad gravelled approach serving a group of established houses. At the end it opens out to a flat level area where a significant space was once marked out by ditches on three sides with a sharp fall at the rear. It is now occupied by a comparatively new house. At this point public access is reduced to a footpath of generous width with hedges and fields on either side. It leads downwards from the holding stowe to a boggy patch draining the north side of the 'holding stowe' as Lower Farm Lane does on the south, though in this case the wetness is exacerbated by a nearby spring.
A slight rise across an open field leads to woodland that continues slightly upwards with streams crossing almost immediately inside these woods. It is likely that the way north through the footpath, open field and woodlands was once of comparable width to Winghams Lane.
Certainly on passing through the gate at the far end of the wood (?Red Gate) there is a wide path delineated by a rising bank on the west side and a low bank falling away into lower fields on the east. The terrain is undulating with distant views. This view closes in on approaching Woolley Pond on the right (east) though the farm which is diagonally opposite has open distant views to the west.
The pond is now very overgrown, and it was impossible to locate the various boundary stones that are indicated on OS maps as being around its perimeter. The fact that they are identified on the maps, however, is indication of the pond’s significance to a number of boundaries that meet at this point.
Conversation with farmer, David Butler, elicited several stories of the pond and its surroundings that seem to have had a resonance over centuries. A nearby olive tree known as the Crusader tree has been assessed by Alex MacIndoe of Hilliers as being in excess of 800 years old. The pond is cleared out every so often so archaeological finds seem to be only 20th century. It was further ascertained that Woolley Pond is a spring-fed pond.
Woolley Green Pond
STILL TO DO
Perhaps analyse more closely the local iron slag and identify any local sources of iron ore
Plot a map according to Anglo-Saxon archaeological evidence for the area
Consider the role of Gosport, which seems to fall outside the bounds of the Ampfield Charter at the east end of present-day Green Lane. The name now survives as Gosport Farm, but was previously used for the whole immediate locality. Was this omission from the charter deliberate, leaving Gosport to continue as a specialist area, possibly as a goose market? In old maps the end of Green Lane at this point has some odd-shaped margins, and the field on the east that curves into Pound Lane opposite the junction may represent an encroachment into a once open space (see 1588 map). So, how does Gosport fit into the picture of Ampfield generally? Note: There are still oddities at the side of the lane at this point today but not as pronounced as indicated by past maps.